Skip to content
artifact

Centella asiatica

What is Centella asiatica? The plant behind cica skincare, explained

Cica, gotu kola, madecassoside, PDRN: here is what each label term means, what is actually in the bottle, and what the research does and doesn't show.

By Artifact Editors, Editorial team

Published · 6 min read

Illustration of a huge round scalloped jade-green leaf like a shield with a tiny rust-orange figure standing beside its stem on cream
Illustration: the leaf behind the cica craze.
In this article
  1. What is Centella asiatica, and where does it come from?
  2. What does “cica” mean on a skincare label?
  3. Is gotu kola the same thing? Names in Hindi and other languages
  4. Leaf extract vs. centella complex vs. madecassoside: what is the difference?
  5. What is Centella asiatica PDRN, and is it the same as centella?
  6. What is centella cream, and how is it different from a serum or toner?
  7. Is skincare centella the same as the supplement or the garden herb?
  8. What the evidence actually supports
  9. FAQ

What is Centella asiatica, and where does it come from?

Centella asiatica is a creeping perennial herb in the Apiaceae family, the same family as carrots and parsley. It is the plant behind nearly every “cica” product.

Its older botanical name is Hydrocotyle asiatica, and other synonyms include Centella coriacea. English names include gotu kola, Asian pennywort, Indian pennywort and tiger grass. It grows in tropical and subtropical wetlands; the sources we reviewed list South and Southeast Asia, Australia, parts of Africa and Madagascar.

People have used it for a long time. A review of the plant as a crop lists Ayurvedic, Chinese, Kampo and African traditional medicine, and notes the leaves are eaten in dishes like Sri Lankan gotu kola sambola and Malay ulam.

What does “cica” mean on a skincare label?

“Cica” is brand shorthand for Centella asiatica. It is a marketing word, not a botanical name and not something we would expect to see as a formal ingredient name.

A 2025 preprint (not peer-reviewed) says the plant is “also known as Cica” and that US and Japanese retailers stock many cica products. We could not find an authoritative source on where the word comes from. It is often linked to scar-related words, but we haven't verified that, so we won't repeat it as fact.

“Tiger grass” is a real English name for the plant. We found no source tying it to the tiger imagery on K-beauty packaging.

Is gotu kola the same thing? Names in Hindi and other languages

Yes. Gotu kola is the Western herbal and supplement name for the same species, Centella asiatica.

In Ayurveda, the sources we reviewed give the Sanskrit name Mandookaparni (also spelled Mandukaparni) and sometimes Brahmi, and Unani medicine also uses Brahmi. A cosmetology review gives Hydrocotyle asiatique in French and Asiatischer Wassernabel in German.

None of our sources gives a specific Hindi name, so we won't assert one. Common names can overlap across herbal traditions. We haven't verified how exclusively “Brahmi” points to Centella, so go by the Latin name, Centella asiatica, when you are matching a product to the plant.

Leaf extract vs. centella complex vs. madecassoside: what is the difference?

They sit on a spectrum from whole-plant extract to purified molecule. Only the stated composition tells you where a product falls.

The plant's main actives are four triterpenoids: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. A systematic review lists them, along with alternate names for two of them (brahminoside for madecassoside, brahmic acid for madecassic acid). The first two are glycosides (sugar attached); the last two are the sugar-free versions.

Label termWhat it isWhat to know
Centella asiatica leaf extractWhole-plant extract; also contains phenolics and flavonoidsTriterpenoid content isn't fixed unless the maker says it is standardized
Centella complex / cica complexBrand termWe found no source that defines it; formulations differ
Standardized extract (e.g., ECa 233)Extract with a defined compositionOne review's glossary lists ECa 233 as 51% madecassoside and 38% asiaticoside; used in clinical trials
Madecassoside, asiaticosidePurified single glycosides, sold as ingredientsHuman cosmetic data is thinner than for extracts; much is lab or animal work
Asiatic acid, madecassic acidSugar-free forms of the glycosidesSame caveat as above

The variation is large. In the same crop review, madecassoside ranged from 0.15% to 5.27% across plant accessions, and asiaticoside from 0.04% to 2.41%. So “centella extract” is not a fixed dose of anything.

What is Centella asiatica PDRN, and is it the same as centella?

No. PDRN is not a Centella compound. It is a separate ingredient that some products pair with Centella.

PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide: a mixture of DNA fragments, 50 to 1,500 kDa in size. The classic version comes from purified sperm DNA of salmon trout or chum salmon and is described as acting on adenosine A2A receptors. The clinical literature we saw is mainly about injectable or medical use, not creams.

Plant and microbial versions exist, including PDRN from peony. The peony data are preclinical, and the only human test was a 10-person skin-barrier model. A 2026 review found no strong study showing plant-derived and salmon-derived PDRN share the same biological profile, and says they can differ in fragment size, contaminants and batch consistency.

We found no peer-reviewed Centella-derived PDRN, though our search was limited. The likeliest explanation for a “Centella PDRN” product is two ingredients in one bottle. We found no data on how much PDRN topical products contain, and we did not verify whether it penetrates intact skin.

What is centella cream, and how is it different from a serum or toner?

The difference is the formula around the Centella, not the Centella. We found no head-to-head comparison of Centella creams, serums and toners.

As general formulation knowledge (not from these studies), creams tend to be richer and more emollient, while toners and serums are lighter and more water-based.

What we do have: one study tested 2.5% and 5% extract in both an emulsion and a hydrogel. Both were non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and the extract improved hydration and barrier function and reduced experimentally induced microinflammation over four weeks.

Another tested a cream with Centella leaf extract, ceramide NP and panthenol in 88 Chinese women with sensitive skin. Sensitivity scores fell 66% at week 2 and 76% at week 4. It was uncontrolled, so it can't separate Centella from the ceramide and panthenol.

Is skincare centella the same as the supplement or the garden herb?

Same species, different products. Dose and route are what change, and trial results don't transfer between them.

  • Skincare: a defined extract or isolated triterpenoids at stated concentrations. Trials have used 0.05% in a gel, 1% in a cream and 2.5–5% in emulsions.
  • Supplement: dried leaf or extract taken by mouth. NIH's LiverTox calls it generally regarded as safe but links it to rare, clinically apparent acute liver injury with jaundice, based on only a few cases.
  • Garden herb: whole leaf with an unknown, variable dose, since triterpenoid content swings widely between plants.

We found no study testing whether home-grown or food-use Centella affects skin, so a homemade infusion can't be assumed to match a formulated product. Supply is also a factor: one review says wild stocks are depleted by overexploitation, which is part of why commercial supply leans on cultivation and biotech methods.

What the evidence actually supports

Modest, and strongest for post-procedure redness and wound appearance. “Cica” does not mean a proven acne, scar or anti-aging treatment.

A systematic review of wound healing found only four clinical trials that met its criteria, with small numbers and varied preparations. The best-controlled example is a split-face, double-blind trial of 0.05% ECa 233 gel after laser resurfacing. The treated side had less erythema, but the difference was small (−0.03 erythema-index units, 95% CI −0.06 to −0.0006), and dermatologists scored wound appearance better on days 2 to 7.

For wrinkles, a network meta-analysis pooled five double-blind trials with 172 Asian women. Its authors say lack of standardization prevents general application and that long-term safety is unestablished.

Claims about collagen and inflammation pathways come mainly from lab and animal work, and a skin-disease review concludes long-term, rigorously controlled trials are still needed. On safety, allergic contact dermatitis is documented; a case report calls Centella a “weak sensitizer” and suggests patch testing at 1% in petrolatum. More in our Centella asiatica hub.

Frequently asked questions

Is centella asiatica safe for sensitive skin?

Often tolerated, but not guaranteed. A patch-test study of 2.5% and 5% extract in an emulsion and a hydrogel found no irritation or sensitization, yet allergic contact dermatitis from Centella is documented. If your skin reacts easily, patch test a new product on your inner arm for several days before using it on your face.

Does cica treat acne, scars or wrinkles?

Not proven. The evidence is best for post-procedure redness and wound appearance in small trials. A wrinkle meta-analysis pooled five trials with 172 Asian women, and its authors flagged poor standardization. Mechanism studies on skin conditions are mostly lab or animal work. A cica product is skincare, not a treatment for any condition.

How can I tell how much centella is in a product?

Usually you can't. An ingredient list alone doesn't give a dose, and we found no rule defining terms like “centella complex.” Trials have used 0.05% in a gel, 1% in a cream and 2.5–5% in emulsions, but brands rarely state theirs. Look for a stated concentration or standardization, and treat vague complexes as marketing.

Is a gotu kola supplement safe to take?

We found no evidence it helps skin when swallowed. NIH's LiverTox calls it generally regarded as safe, but links it to rare, clinically apparent acute liver injury with jaundice, based on only a few cases. If you have liver problems, ask a clinician before taking it.

Sources (17)
  1. Centella asiatica as a Model Biomass for Sustainable Production of Biochemicals via Green Extraction and Purification Technologies
  2. Centella asiatica in cosmetology PMC
  3. Topical Application of Centella asiatica in Wound Healing: Recent Insights into Mechanisms and Clinical Efficacy
  4. Centella asiatica L. Urban: From Traditional Medicine to Modern Medicine with Neuroprotective Potential
  5. Centella asiatica, LiverTox NIDDK/NCBI Bookshelf
  6. Evaluation of Effects on Skin Quality of a Centella asiatica Extracellular Vesicle-based Skin Care Formulation medRxiv preprint
  7. Pharmacological Effects of Centella asiatica on Skin Diseases: Evidence and Possible Mechanisms
  8. Efficacy and Safety of Centella Asiatica L. Urb. on Wrinkles: A Systematic Review and Network Meta-Analysis
  9. A Systematic Review of the Effect of Centella asiatica on Wound Healing cited for the names for the four triterpenoids
  10. Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use of PDRN
  11. Anti-Aging Efficacy of Low-Molecular-Weight Polydeoxyribonucleotide Derived from Paeonia lactiflora
  12. Plant-Derived Polynucleotides/Polydeoxyribonucleotides in Skin Biomaterials: Delivery Platforms and Bioactivity Attribution
  13. Moisturizing and Antiinflammatory Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Centella asiatica Extract
  14. Effectiveness and Safety of a Skin Care Product With Centella asiatica Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, and Panthenol in Sensitive Skin
  15. Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing: Split-Face RCT
  16. Allergic contact dermatitis due to Centella asiatica: a new case
  17. Biotechnological Intervention and Secondary Metabolite Production in Centella asiatica L.

Keep reading

More in Beauty →

The Artifact Edit

One smart email a week. What’s worth buying, what’s hype, and why.